06/03/2022

Iceland, in harmony with nature

Author of the article

My name is Oksana Gutierrez and I am 25 years old. I am passionate about travelling, art, photography and sports. In 2013, I was a victim of a spinal cord inflammation and ended up as a quadriplegic. It wasn't easy every day and adapting to the constraints of my new daily life seemed impossible. But after all these difficulties, I decided to continue travelling, to live a normal life and to always look at the bright side. I also started to exercise again and after trying several sports I started to take up athletics and crossfit.

Today, I want to spread a positive message about disability through the association Kondor, created with my sister Nastasia, and my account @oksana_gtz. If I can help make the world more inclusive then all the bad things that happened to me will not have been in vain and I can say that I turned my weaknesses into a strength. Anyone can live a good, full life and I would like to show that a wheelchair does not get in the way of happiness. You just have to want it and your life will be full of adventure!

OUR TRIP: 10 days, from 2 to 12 September 2021

WHERE? In Iceland

TIME DIFFERENCE: There is a 2-hour time difference with France.

HOW TO GET THERE: You can fly from Paris and land in Keflavik, which is a 50-minute bus ride from the capital. The connection between the airport and Reykjavik is a bit complicated because the buses are not adapted.

WHEN TO GO? The peak tourist season is between June and August. That's when there are endless days, festivals and plenty of cultural activities. We went in September, the shoulder season, ideal for those looking for a quiet time on the road. However, the weather is more windy. I recommend staying for 2 weeks to have time to see as much as possible without being in a hurry. 

CURRENCY : Icelandic Krona (ISK): 1€: 144 ISK in March 2022. The cost of living on the island is very high. To give you an idea, prices on the island are double those in Paris. On the other hand, plane tickets are not very expensive. They can vary between 150€ and 250€ per person. Hotels are extremely expensive, the most affordable except for camping are the Guest Houses at 150€ per night. This is still very expensive but if you want a minimum of comfort and warmth at some point during your trip, this can be a solution. Van rental is still expensive but you save a bit compared to hotels.

MANAGING THE COLD: And yes, we don't go to Iceland to look for tropical weather. It is a reality, it is very cold. I advise you to bring the following clothes: windbreaker, jumpers, undershirts, leggings, tights, gloves, necklace, thick socks, small hand warmers and a swimming costume to go to the hot baths.

EAT WELL: If you're going on a van trip, here's a tip: pack some food in your suitcase. We ate a lot of Asian noodles (45 cents) and Nordic bread (2,50€) that we brought from France. We bought all the fresh products on the spot: vegetables, cheeses etc.

Before I left, I heard a lot that the food wasn't great in Iceland, that it was very American. But I don't really agree. We ate really well! So it's true that there are a lot of fast-food restaurants but like everywhere else. I found that there was a good choice of menu, you can eat in many vegetarian and healthy places so I was happy. And good news, you can drink the tap water, it is excellent. The most famous dishes are the lamb soup and the fermented shark.

REMEMBER: The iconic Lopapeysa is a knitted wool jumper with a circle pattern on the neckline.

THREE SITES to help you plan your trip: The official site of the tourist office, a French site with lots of information and one to help you travel in an eco-responsible way.

WHY GO? There are two fantastic things about early September: the start of the Northern Lights in the north of the country and the whales are back near the coast!

Iceland, the island where man lives in harmony with nature. Located between Greenland and Norway, it is here that you will see vast and grandiose landscapes. I sincerely advise you to go there one day in your life. There is nothing like the diversity of landscapes you will find there. It is often difficult to find the words to describe it. The good news is that it is an accessible destination!

Water is Iceland's greatest asset. At the beginning of your journey, you will stop at each waterfall because they are so spectacular. Then towards the end, it will be almost commonplace as you will have seen so many! There are hot springs too, but it's harder to get used to them. The coolness will make you stop at everyhot tubyou find.

For the record, their hot springs have enabled the Icelanders to create gardens in greenhouses. Bananas a few kilometres from the Arctic Circle? Yes, we didn't expect that either.

Why did I make this trip?

Let me introduce you to Victor, it's with him and my boyfriend that I left for this road trip in Iceland. Behind this trip, there was a goal. Victor is a tour guide and has created Enlakoro. He accompanies people who want to discover new horizons. When we met at the crossfit, he told me that he would like to accompany people in wheelchairs but that he didn't know how to do it. A project together quickly became obvious: "Do you want to go to Iceland? Yes!

Our meeting was almost as simple as that!

This trip was organised so that Victor could gain experience and then accompany you and take you to challenge yourself anywhere in the world.

Travelling by van

This is the big question: is it possible to travel in a van when you are in a wheelchair?

Well yes it is possible but like any trip or expedition, you have to be organised and prepared! We chose the van option to save money. It still comes at a cost, we paid about 1,100 euros for our week's rental. We had a camper van with just a folding bed and cooking equipment. We didn't have a built-in kitchen or toilet. So there was only the bare minimum.

We did as the campers do by refilling a water tank for hydration, for meals, for the toilet etc... As for the toilets... well we went as soon as we found public toilets. Ah yes, it's a change from the daily comfort! With a van trip, you have to be ready to test the limits of your autonomy. I advise you to change your habits in this respect before leaving.

For petrol, don't worry, petrol stations are very well spread out in the country. If you are afraid not to find any, just find them on a map, no bad surprises! Water is free and the price of petrol is quite similar to that in France.

General accessibility

People often think that wilderness = disaster in terms of accessibility. Well, Iceland proved me wrong! I really expected worse and it must be said that it's not too bad. There are a lot of wooden footbridges that allow you to move easily to the natural tourist places, a real chance. You can see almost everything! There are also adapted toilets at each tourist point and you can also find them in supermarkets and other shops. Of course, going for a walk or a trek in the wilderness is still complicated. They haven't installed ramps everywhere yet.

Icelanders are very friendly, so if you have a problem they will be happy to help you.

The starting point of our trip, Reykjavik

Reykjavik is an absolutely charming city. It feels like a tiny village. So when we learned that it was the biggest city, it made us laugh. For the record, it's a fairly recent city, the oldest buildings date from the 19th century.

Getting around the centre of Reykjavik is easy: the streets are flat, the buses are accessible but it is quite hilly. Unfortunately there are not many accessible bars and restaurants. There are often stairs at the entrance or inside. I have noted a few addresses in the following article.

Even though the weather is grey most of the year to the point where the inhabitants hardly see the sun, the city is very pleasant. The architecture is very colourful, which creates a contrast with the grey sky. This gives the city a certain dynamism and makes it very photogenic. Strolling along the city's main street, Laugavegur,is also nice during the day and at night. In fact, the nightlife in Reykjavik is vibrant with music everywhere on the street.

Stroll in Reykjavik harbour
Cocooning coffees

The cafés are very pleasant with their quirky decoration and their very cocooning atmosphere. Simple dishes are served such as soups, fish and chips etc...

Here is our selection:

Café Babalu : This is a real favourite! We are immersed in a wonderful atmosphere of a very colourful garage sale. Their tomato soup is excellent! Unfortunately, there are no accessible toilets and the entrance is quite narrow.

Some ideas for accessible restaurants

Brewdog : This place is great for great beers and burgers! There is also a choice for vegetarians.

Kock: Located near the harbour, this great restaurant is perfect for enjoying excellent burgers, fries and salads with incredible sauces. Like in the picture below: fries with feta sauce, grapes and peanuts!

Sandholt : At lunchtime we often went for soup and excellent pastries to the most famous bakery in Reykjavik. It is located in the main street of the city and their bread is really delicious.

Bars have their place

Although not often accessible, we tested two addresses:

Einstok : Very good address with a wide variety of beers to taste.

Magic Ice : We experienced the ice bar, a negative temperature bar filled with beautiful ice sculptures. The entrance fee is €27 per person and you get all the equipment to stay warm as well as a vodka-based cocktail. It's a unique experience that I recommend you do as there are only 5 in the world!

What to visit in Reykjavik?

We start with HallgrimskirkjaHallgrimskirkja, Reykjavik's large modern cathedral, which at 73 metres overlooks the city. There is a lift that stops at the second to last floor (why do they do that??) so you can't see the view of the city. I was carried to the top floor and had to be on someone's back to see the view. So it's not very accessible. Nevertheless, you can walk around on the ground floor, it's very beautiful and the architecture is impressive.

We also visited, ThjodminjasafnThe National Museum. This museum is very accessible and allows you to immerse yourself in the history of Iceland by discovering hundreds of objects from the colonial era to the present day. It is located right next to Hljómskála Park. It is a small park with a lake if you want to get some fresh air after visiting the museum.

Iceland Tour, the essentials

Facing the Arctic Circle and the icy Arctic Ocean, the north of the island was my favourite part of the trip.

Hauganes beach hot tubs

This is the first hot bath of our road trip! It's a good place, not too touristy, where there are often locals. We went there at night and it was so cocooning, I loved it!

The plus: it's a free payment.

Some pictures on the road to Dalvik and Hauganes

Whale watching

From Aruyerki, we had the chance to see whales! It was very moving to see these animals in real life, passing by the boat.

We chose the company Whale Watching Akureyri for the trip. Well, the tourist boats are not accessible at all. They had to carry me so that I could get a good seat to watch the whales. However, I was so cold! Make sure you cover yourself well for this kind of sea trip.

The excursion costs about €150 for two people.

Northern lights in Myvatn, Reykjahlíð

We were very lucky that night. It was a night when we were sleeping at a local's house. There were a lot of us in the house, we talked, ate, one of us took out his guitar. In short, an evening like we like! And suddenly we got a notification on the app My Aurora Forecast which allows to detect the arrival of the Northern Lights and we rushed outside...

It's amazing what it's like to see it in real life. It happens little by little and then the sky fills with green, pink and it swirls everywhere. It was just unreal.

The best time to see the aurora is from September to April.

The Nature baths of Mývatn

My favourite place in Iceland! It's hard to find a favourite place as there are so many. But these baths are really breathtaking with their breathtaking view of Mývatn. It was so nice to relax in the 35-40°C water after a long day. I would recommend going in the evening to get an incredible view of the sunset in all its colours.

All the information can be found here.

Prices: 27 euros for PRM and 40 euros for others.

Accessibility: There is everything you need, ramps, shower chairs and above all the staff are there to help you. I was incredibly surprised by their kindness and patience.

Right next to Mývatn, we went to Skútustaðahreppur. We climbed a small mountain which was not so complicated. There are marked paths which are very useful to get around. I advise you to go with an electric wheel to help you in the propulsion.

The ochre colours are so beautiful to see. You feel like you are alone on Mars!

For the night, we stop in Djúpivogur at the seaside. We even had the right to a big blue sky!

We stopped in Höfn to eat scampi sandwiches in a small restaurant. The view was incredible.

Lake Jökulsárlón

It was the first time I saw a polar landscape. With this beautiful blue sky it was simply sublime. The seals were walking between the icebergs that were breaking off from the Vatnajökull glacier to reach the sea.

Just next door is Diamond Beach, an impressive black sand beach with iceberg splinters stranded all along.

However, to get to this beach you need someone to carry you on your back as the access is quite complicated.

Blue Lagoon

It is one of the most touristy places in the country. That's why you have to book your tickets on the internet in advance in order to choose your schedule.

Once in the lagoon, you have access to a bar and a "mask bar" ideal for a little facial.

All the information can be found here.

Price: The price varies according to the number of visitors. Prices start at €50.

Accessibility: There are plastic chairs for getting into the water, a large changing cabin and you can even use the infirmary to change on a large bed, which is even more practical! 

THE GOLDEN CIRCLE

Located two hours from the capital, it is the most touristic part of Iceland and includes the sites of Gulfoss, Thingvellir and Geysir.

The spectacular Gulfoss Falls

Gulfoss Falls are impressive and you can get up close and personal to see them. There is a car park with disabled parking at the start of the trail.

Thingvellir

Thingvellir is a large protected natural area. There are rocky landscapes, lakes and ridges. The drive through this area alone is sublime. You can stop at the Öxarárfoss waterfall. The trail is easily accessible for PRMs as in Iceland, in order not to damage nature, they have put in wooden walkways. There is a toilet for disabled people at the beginning of the trail.

Geysir

This is one of Iceland's top attractions. Located in the beautiful Haukadalur valley you can see translucent blue waters, mud tides and brightly coloured rocks. But don't try to put your hands in the water as it can reach 100°C.

There is a restaurant and PRM toilets next door.

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