Reading time: 5 minutes
OUR TRIP: 5 days on site: 16-20 July 2020
WHY GO THERE ? For the gorges around Corte, the steep roads to Zonza, the Aiguilles de Bavella
ACCESSIBILITY: Find all our addresses on our Mapstr map!
We leave Bastia to discover the heart of Corsica. Watch out, it's spinning!
Stage 1: Corte
Once the capital of Corsica, Corte is located in the heart of the island. Its position gives multiple possibilities to discover the surrounding gorges, lakes and mountains.
Since our arrival, we have been a little frustrated that we can't climb in the mountains like we did in South America. Here, the terrain is rough from the starting point. Unless you are a seasoned sportsman, it is difficult to follow the rhythm imposed by the Corsican relief. We won't tell you in a wheelchair!
The Restonica Valley
Once the capital of Corsica, Corte is located in the heart of the island. Its position gives multiple possibilities to discover the surrounding gorges, lakes and mountains.
Since our arrival, we have been a little frustrated that we can't climb in the mountains like we did in South America. Here, the terrain is rough from the starting point. Unless you are a seasoned sportsman, it is difficult to follow the rhythm imposed by the Corsican relief. We won't tell you in a wheelchair!
We try our luck by going to the Restonica valley. The winding, narrow road takes you to a paying car park (6€ a day). If you can, go to the end of the road where the Grotelle sheepfold is located. This is where the path to the lakes of Mélo and Capitello begins. We don't even try to use it as it is not easy to use with a wheelchair.
However, you can take in the sights by walking along the river. Here and there natural pools are formed, cows and goats are free... What more could you want!
En préparant cette étape à Corte, notre attention s’est évidemment portée sur le lac de Niño et ses pozzines. Nous n’avions qu’une envie : trouver un moyen pour y accéder. Malheureusement, les seules possibilités sont à pied ou à cheval. Si vous vous souvenez, nous avons fait du cheval à San Pedro de Atacama au Chili et l’expérience s’était révélée être fatigante bien qu’évoluant sur terrain plat. On ne vous cache pas que monter un cheval à flanc de montagne sans assurance ne nous tentait pas trop ! On se contentera de longer la gorge en direction du lac de Calacuccia. Attention les yeux… c’est très beau !
Cap au sud pour rejoindre Zonza. Deux options sont possibles : par la côte ou par l’intérieur des terres.
Si vous n’êtes pas pressés, nous ne pouvons que vous recommander de passer par les terres. Cette région de Corse est méconnue et peu de touristes s’y aventurent. Vous y serez quasiment seuls ! Découvrez des villages pittoresques, tombez nez à nez avec des cochons, des chèvres, des vaches au détour d’un virage. Un pur régal !
Hotel Si Mea: The hotel, located overlooking the road, offers a breathtaking view of the citadel and the surrounding mountains. Accessibility: 4/5
L'Authentic: A few Corsican dishes are on the menu of this restaurant just a few steps from the entrance to the old town. Accessibility: 0/5 (only the terrace is accessible)
U San Teofalu: We chose this address among all the others on the square and we came out satisfied. Accessibility: 0/5 (only the terrace is accessible. Work will be done to make it accessible)
Gorges de la Restonica: The beauty of these gorges can be discovered by road but also by a walk along the river and its natural pools. Accessibility: 4/5
Stage 2: Zonza
Zonza is a meeting place for courageous hikers on the GR20. The penultimate stage, one of the most difficult, crosses the jewel of central Corsica: the Aiguilles de Bavella.
Zonza is a meeting place for courageous hikers on the GR20. The penultimate stage, one of the most difficult, crosses the jewel of central Corsica: the Aiguilles de Bavella.
If you are just passing through, it is possible to do various hikes from the pass. There is a large car park and mountain guides are on hand to give you valuable advice before you set off!
- On the north side, huge rocks, chains and metal stairs await you.
- On the south side, trees, roots and stones mark the paths.
We'll let you guess which one we chose... the South of course!
The most wheelchair-friendly hike is the Trou de la Bombe. We set off on the trail with a couple of friends whom we met on the spot. Pierre advances alone on good portions and when he needs help, an effective communication is set up between us to push, turn, pass in two wheels. After 2 kilometres of intense effort, too many roots block the road and we have to turn back. We didn't think we would get this far, but we have no regrets after this sportive morning!
To recover from our emotions, we have lunch at theAuberge du Col de Bavella, an institution in the heart of the mountains.
Hotel Clair de Lune: The hotel is located at the bottom of the town centre. It has an accessible room (very small), a terrace and a swimming pool. Accessibility: 4/5
Eternisula: Famous recipes revisited by the chef. Accessibility : 0/5
Auberge du Col de Bavella: At the foot of the Aiguilles de Bavella, this inn offers well-deserved comfort to GR20 hikers! Accessibility: 5/5
Le trou de la bombe: A hike accessible to all our able-bodied readers. For those of you in wheelchairs, you need to be well equipped. We set off with cross-country tyres, my active manual wheelchair and an RGK Frontwheel. Be sure to go with someone to get past the many roots and rocks that could block the road! Accessibility: 0/5
Viewpoint: A unique view of Zonza and the Aiguilles de Bavella. Park your car on the right hand side of the road and slip through the trees and brambles to a huge rock. If you can, climb on it using the utensils in place. As you read this, you might be wondering where we're sending you, but we'll hear from you! A breathtaking view!
Au loin, entre les arbres, nous distinguons la mer. Nous rejoignons la côte orientale pour une escale gastronomique que l’on n’est pas prêt d’oublier !