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Watch the video of our trip to Australia here!
OUR TRAVEL: 13 days on site: 31 January to 12 February 2020
WHERE? South coast of Australia, from Adelaide to Melbourne
TIME DIFFERENCE: +7:30 in summer / +8:30 in winter
CURRENCY: Australian Dollar (AUD): 1 = 1.6 AUD in January 2020.
TEL/INTERNET: Internet in hotels, restaurants, etc. You can also opt for the Free package at 19.99€/month to have 25GB of data during your stay
CURRENT: Type I, two angled plugs, provide an adapter and a power strip
CAR RENTAL: Standard rental companies are available. Bring your international license just in case, not all agencies ask for it. Remember to ask them to create an electronic toll account, which will allow you to save a few dollars on your journey. You also have the choice of renting a converted van (Jucy, Britz, Apollo) to roam around as you please!
WHY GO THERE? For the animals of Kangaroo Island, the limestone cliffs of the Great Ocean Road, the vineyards of Melbourne
ACCESSIBILITY: Find all our addresses on our Mapstr map!
It is in Adelaide that we start the last stage of our Australian journey. Read our previous articles here to find out everything!
Stage 1: Adelaide and Kangaroo Island
Adelaide (2 nights)
We stay two nights at theIbis Adelaide. Our flight from Alice Springs was delayed, so we only spend one "real" day there. Not having had time before, we prepare these last two weeks in a bit of a rush in the morning and wander around the city centre in the afternoon.
Ibis Adelaide: Perfect hotel in the city centre! Accessibility: 5/5
Kangaroo Island (128 km - 2.5 hours drive - 2 nights)
We've been waiting for a few days now: Kangaroo Island!
This island was in the news until we arrived. Unfortunately, it was here that the bushfires were the most violent. Half of the island's forests burned down, taking with them thousands of kangaroos, koalas, birds and other animals.
To get there, we take the ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw. Access to the ferry is greatly facilitated for people in wheelchairs. If you can't get up the ramp on your own, they provide an electric wheelchair. And if you are driving, they will place your car on the ferry and let others help you.
The fires have once again changed our plans. The Kangaroo Island National Park occupying the western half of the island is closed as well as most of the forests.
However, we take advantage of our day to visit two emblems of the island:
Seal Bay
On a beach in the south of the island, a colony of seals has chosen to make its home here. They migrate here every year and return to give birth and enjoy the first months of the newborns.
A fully accessible boardwalk allows you to get as close as possible to the mammals (it climbs on the way back). A treat when the youngest are chasing their tails on the beach! If you feel like it, you can also take the guided tour that will take you to the beach (unfortunately not accessible).
2. Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park
As we said during our stay in Byron Bay, we visited the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary without being thrilled by its zoo aspect.
We decided to visit the Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park, an institution renowned for its commitment to animal protection and conservation. Luck has smiled on them many times in recent years during the fire season. Again this year, the fires have surrounded the centre but never reached it, a miracle! Their hospital is always busy with the many animals that are brought there by locals or transported from the mainland. They are treated there and as soon as they are fit again, they are released.
Accompanied by a soigneur for almost 4 hours, we met and fed koalas, wallabies, cassowaries, wombats and many others!
This is one of the best experiences we've had in Australia! It is a must-see on the south coast.
For the more adventurous of you going to Perth by car, a road leaves through the bush from Kata Tjuta ! It's a 1,991km drive and takes 25 hours... don't forget to bring food and water!
Good to know: if you go to the Red Centre in the summer, the bush flies invade the area and drive you crazy! The only way to enjoy them is to buy a fly net to put on your head before going out (10 AUS at the town's supermarket). Without it, the sensation of those sticky insects trying to get into your mouth or ears can quickly spoil even the most beautiful sunsets...
Sealink Kangaroo Island: 45 min crossing. Ticket: $98AUD per person per vehicle (approx. €60). Accessibility: 5/5
Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge: A pleasant hotel. Accessibility: 1/5
Mercure Kangaroo Island Lodge: The hotel's restaurant is one of the best on the island! Accessibility: 5/5
Seal bay: Get up close and personal with the seal colony. Ticket: $16.5AUD (approx. €10) for the self-guided tour and $37AUD (approx. €22.5) for the guided tour.
Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park: A magical place for animals... not to be missed! Ticket: $28AUD (approx. 17€) for the self-guided tour and $300AUD (approx. 180€) for the private tour. Accessibility: 5/5
Stage 2: The Great Ocean Road and Melbourne
Kingston (430km - 6h drive - 1 night)
We leave Kangaroo Island and head for the Great Ocean Road. The road is long and we stop in Kingston. On the way, the Coorong National Park allows us to take a break at the edge of its infinite pond.
Lacepede Bay Motel: A motel with a breathtaking view of the ocean. We were not able to test their restaurant as it was fully booked, so please call them for reservations. Accessibility: 5/5
Coorong National Park: Salt marshes as far as the eye can see just a few metres from the ocean!
Great Ocean Road (417km - 5h drive - 3 nights)
After this last night in South Australia, we enter Victoria through the town of Nelson. Not far from there, the Bridgewater Cape points the tip of its nose. A walk, rather easy to drive, allows us to admire a petrified forest on the side of the cliff, it is impressive! Be careful, in summer, swarms of horseflies are on the lookout...
Now it's time to enter the Great Ocean Road just past Warrnambool! This road is world famous for its rock formations. The waves lap at the rock and constantly change their shape.
There are no less than 8 viewpoints along the way to Princetown. If you arrive in the late afternoon, we advise you to save the surprise until the next morning... The light at sunrise is like no other!
To make sure you get the most out of this exceptional coastline, it's best to stay for 2 or 3 nights. We put our bags down at Pebble Point, a glamping site with a view over the surrounding fields. Here, no wifi, little network, the simple pleasure of nature just a step away from the 12 Apostles!
Out of 3 sunrises, only one is without rain for us! Don't worry, the rain doesn't take anything away from the charm of the early morning and there's no doubt that the sun won't come out a little later. In the same way as in Brittany, it is sunny several times a day!
5:30 am, the alarm clock rings. In the darkness, take the road to the 12 Apostles car park. Be careful, it is in this time slot that kangaroos can cross at any time. Don't be surprised when you arrive at the viewpoint, only 8 of these limestone towers formed millions of years ago remain. The low-angled light and sea spray create a unique atmosphere that will remain in your memory!
If you wish, take the Gibson Steps to access the beach below.
To continue, there are two options:
- Go up to the Bay of Islands and gradually retrace your steps
- Head to Port Campbell for a breakfast of champions at Forage on the Foreshore overlooking the bay
Apart from the 12 Apostles, we have a particular fondness for four other (100% accessible) courses:
- Loch Ard Gorge: On a trident-shaped cliff, the view is radically different at each point. Our favourite: Tom and Eva Lookout
- Bay of Islands: Rocks as if dropped in the heart of the bay... Magic! The beach is accessible by a staircase but the view from the top is worth the diversions.
- The Arch: A path, a little steep, leads to an arch shaped by erosion
- London Arch: Previously known as London Bridge, this is one of the most imposing arches on the course. The first part collapsed in 1990 leaving a gaping hole between the ground and the remaining arch.
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Also stop at the last two viewpoints Bay of Martyrs, The Grotto. The last one is almost impossible for wheelchair users to access because of the many stairs. This cave can be seen from above, but the effect will be less impressive than the others.
For a break from the routine of salads in your tent, a burger or fish and chips at the Port Campbell Hotel should do the trick.
Pebble Point: Glamping on the Great Ocean Road... Magic ! Accessibility: 2/5 (relatively spacious bathroom but not fitted out; inclined plane to access the tent)
Forage on the Foreshore: Perfect for breakfast or brunch after getting up at dawn! Accessibility: 5/5 (access from the side of the restaurant)
Port Campbell Hotel: A fish & chip or burger with a local beer, just what you need after a long day. Accessibility: 5/5 (access from the back of the restaurant)
Port Campbell National Park: All the information on the Great Ocean Road.
Accessibility in Victoria 's parks : All the information on accessible activities in Victoria
Melbourne (297km - 4h37 drive - 3 nights)
After 3 days on this mythical road, we take the road one last time for our last stop: Melbourne!
On the way, make a diversion to the Great Otway National Park, you won't regret it! At the very end of the road is the most southerly lighthouse in the country: Cape Otway. The road passes through a huge eucalyptus forest, so put your feet up, take a deep breath and look for koalas in the treetops!
A final stop on the road not far from Lorne at the Erskine Waterfalls. They are among the most beautiful on the Great Ocean Road. They are accessible by 3 long stairs which makes access difficult for a wheelchair.
To end the day we have a drink at the Stomping Ground, known for its locally brewed beers. Finally, we check into our last Australian hotel, the Mantra on the Park, only a few minutes walk from the centre.
On the advice of friends living in Melbourne, we keep the car for an extra day to drive to the Mornington Peninsula. This is where the vines of many vineyards turn golden in the hot sun, which then produces powerful wines... For wine lovers: tastings are very affordable ($10AUD, about €5 for 6 glasses). The vineyards touch each other but you have to choose. We chose Tucks for its terrace overlooking the vineyards... simply splendid! When the weather is good, the tables are crowded with Melbournians in their thirties looking for calm and greenery.
The next day, unloaded from our car, we visit the CBD known for its famous lanes. The walls of these lanes are covered with graffiti! Some have become legendary, others are linked to current events and only live for a few days before giving way to the next.
Our favourite lanes:
- AC/DC lane: The most famous, the most beautiful!
- Hosier lane: This is where you can legally see graffiti artists at work!
- Strachan lane: It's the smallest, and the artists haven't wasted any of the available walls!
If you want to see them all, Union lane and Payne's lane are the last two on the list. They left us wanting more... So, to recharge our batteries, we stop at the Meatball and Wine bar on the corner of AC/DC lane! It's delicious but avoid having breakfast if you want to finish your meal (vegetarian options available)...
We agree, street art doesn't speak to everyone so don't worry, there are a couple of things to discover in the CBD. From Flinders St, you have access to the imposing St Paul's Cathedral and Flinders Central Station, which still retains the charm of its British-era façade. At the corner of Elizabeth St and Collins St, the Block Arcade takes you back several decades and you can browse in one of the many shops. The tour ends with the Victoria State Library. This huge building, which is completely free to enter, is visited with respect for the hard-working. The Trobe Reading room, the largest reading room, has a dome that gives it an incredible cachet. Climb the balconies by lift or staircase to get a bird's eye view... beware of vertigo!
Finish in style by getting your feet under the table on the Drumplings terrace. The chef revisits recipes such as the Big Mac in a dumpling style... a must try!
On our last day in Australia, we wanted to enjoy the market at Queen Victoria Central Market. It's huge so make sure you memorise the map so you don't get lost! You'll find everything from souvenirs to fresh fish and vegetables. Take something to eat at one of the stalls but beware, we had seafood and it was not cooked properly... A little coffee at Market Lane Coffee and we headed to Fitzroy to enjoy the parks and the different atmosphere of the CBD. On the way back to the hotel, we grabbed a pizza at Shawcross, a treat for this last meal.
Mantra on the Park: An apartment hotel close to the centre. Accessibility: 5/5
Stomping Ground: Local beers in Melbourne's hipster district. Accessibility: 5/5
Tucks Winery: A glass of wine, feet on the lawn, view of the vineyards! Tasting: $10AUD (approx. 5€). Accessibility: 5/5
Meatball and Wine Bar: Meatballs for all tastes and sauces! Accessibility: 1/5
Drumplings: The dumplings of the 21st century! Accessibility: 2/5
Queen Victoria Central Market: A huge indoor market where you can find everything! Accessibility: 5/5
Market Lane Coffee: A good coffee and the day starts again! Accessibility: 5/5
Shawcross: One of the many pizzerias in Fitzroy, a favourite for the thin dough! Take them to go and enjoy them in the park. Accessibility: 0/5
Cape Otway: All the info on the park, if you have time, you can sleep in the lighthouse! Ticket: $19,5AUD (approx. 12€)
Erskine Falls: Beautiful waterfalls in a lush forest!
It's on this last city walk that we end our 6 weeks trip in Australia. We had an unforgettable New Year's Eve, saw beaches full of surfers as far as the eye can see, met a cassowary in the undergrowth of the Daintree rainforest, survived bush flies in the Red Centre, succumbed to the charm of the koalas on Kangaroo Island and braved the spray to admire the 12 Apostles!
It's time for us to start the part of our oceanic journey that will require the most effort with the crossing of New Zealand in tandem! We'll tell you all about it in our next articles!
