25/11/2018

Arches and Canyonlands: the sudden interest in geology...

We leave Salt Lake and head south! A four hour drive through the Wasatch Mountains will take you to two of the most famous national parks in the world for their unique geology: welcome to Arches and Canyonlands!

Watch the first part of our trip on video!

What are we talking about?

Southern Utah is known for its exceptional geological sites, created in friable rock by the erosion of the Colorado River and the extreme climatic conditions of this desert area (extremely hot in summer and snowy in winter).

Although separated by only a few kilometres, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks are very different. The red rocks of Arches, carved into delicate shapes by erosion, contrast with the ochre cliffs of Canyonlands, created by successive plateau collapses, at the foot of which flows the green waters of the Colorado.

In both areas you will find breathtaking scenery on the roads and paths (these are protected areas, the permitted areas are clearly marked and we recommend that you follow them)!

Follow the guide...

How to get there?

As with the rest of our trip, we recommend that you have a car to get into and around the parks. Park fees in Utah average $30 for a private vehicle (but they tend to change, so be sure to check prices at Arches and Canyonlands beforeyou leave). An annual pass ($55) will allow you access to many of Utah's national parks... so we strongly recommend you take it if you want to visit several!

Each park has its own Visitor Centre, located at the entrance. There you will meet rangers who will advise you on what to see (whether you are able-bodied or disabled) and tell you everything there is to know about the park... Take a look around to get started, you will enjoy your visit all the more!

NB: if you plan to cycle or walk through Arches, you should know that the roads are recent and in good condition and that the whole park is relatively flat... Except at the entrance! The access to the plateau is via a winding road, steep as we like it! It is better to be a seasoned sportsman to tackle the hill...

What we liked

In Arches, there is a very contradictory feeling of being in a fragile site, to be preserved, and of being so small in front of the surrounding rocky mass. For Indiana Jones fans, you will enjoy being in the incredible setting of the Last Crusade, at the foot of the Double Arch!

At Canyonlands, the encounter with an overwhelming immensity... Quite simply. The view from the top of the plateau almost gives the impression of being in the middle of an ocean of sand and rocks, with no hospitable land on the horizon... Poignant!

Not to be missed
Arches

Follow the road at the entrance to the park to access all the viewpoints and hiking trails. You can't go wrong, every branch is a dead end: if the road stops, it means you've reached an interesting place... All you have to do is take advantage of it and turn around to continue your journey to discover the park!

We recommend :

  • Balanced Rock (in the middle of the park), a huge rock that seems to balance on its almost 40-metre high pedestal,
  • The Windows Section and Double Arch (to the east), for its concentration of arches, which can be appreciated from close by (access on foot) as well as from afar (from the Windows road)
  • Delicate Arch, the park's fragile and imposing landmark. The three-hour hike to reach it will delight the most courageous (bring water and good shoes), but unfortunately it is not accessible. To observe the arch from the bottom of the plateau, choose the "Lower viewpoint", accessible from the foot of the hill...
Canyonlands

Canyonlands is a huge park... Given the time we had, we had to choose: we chose the North-East of the park. We loved it:  

  • Dead Horse Point State Park, for its breathtaking view of the Colorado River (before the entrance to Canyonlands: about 20 minutes drive, $20 for a private vehicle and not included in the annual pass... But it's worth it)
  • Island in the Sky, at the northern entrance to the park: you can walk along the cliffs and observe the plateau as far as the eye can see, criss-crossed by impressive canyons
  • Mesa Arch, an imposing boulder on the edge of the cliff just ten minutes from the Island in the Sky visitor centre. Although the path down to its feet is rocky and not very passable, you can get a glimpse of it from the top of the hill. Don't hesitate to bring some help to climb up, the slope is steep...
Where to eat, where to sleep?

Moab is the city of passage to visit these two parks. Well, town... A big word! We would describe it more as a series of hotels and restaurants around a main street. Not very charming, but very convenient, as it is only a few minutes drive from the entrance of Arches Park... And only 35 minutes from Canyonlands !

You will find many comfortable hotels and motels... We slept at La Quinta Inn & Suites : bookings here with description of the rooms (including adapted if necessary : ADA). Note: many hotels in this region have swimming pools... And that's not too much to ask for when you see the temperatures, especially in summer! Don't forget that you are in a desert area when you choose your hotel...

If you prefer to stay directly in the park, there are campsites... But you have to book early! Pitches are often reserved 8 to 12 months in advance...

The restaurants are mostly fast food or barbecue joints... But we loved the Moab Brewery, for its warm welcome and its choice of local beers!

Some useful information in a wheelchair

If the majority of the viewpoints are accessible (roadside or numerous flat and developed paths), the hiking paths are often less so (steep slopes, sand, stones, roots...). You can therefore venture out at the start of some of them, but not necessarily to the end: suitable equipment and a little help may be welcome!

The advantage is that in the United States, information on accessibility is numerous and easily available: the official website of the national parks lists all the viewpoints and walks that are wheelchair accessible according to their level of difficulty. You can find out all about Arches here, and about Canyonlands there (don't hesitate to ask us questions if you don't speak English and need more information)!

For more details on our experience, find accessibility information on our hotel, bars/restaurants and sites visited on jaccede.com!

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