24/06/2022

Athens, 4 days in the heart of antiquity

OUR TRAVEL: 4 days from 6 to 9 May 2022

WHERE? Athens, capital of Greece

TIME ZONE: +1h all year round

HOW TO GET THERE: Flying with Aegean Airlines is the easiest way to get to Greece. From Paris the direct flight takes 3 hours! With the resumption of air traffic, the company offers flights from Lyon, Nantes, Marseille, Bordeaux, Toulouse, Nice, Mulhouse, Deauville and Brest to Athens, Corfu, Heraklion, Kalamata, Mykonos, Rhodes and Thessaloniki.

The deployment of Wifi on board is currently being deployed on new aircraft. Two packages, for €4 or €9, allow you to surf the Internet or watch your favourite series!

WHEN TO GO? The best time to go is just before or just after the summer. This way you can avoid the heat and the influx of tourists. 

WHY GO THERE? To discover the origins of the first democracy, to marvel at the remains of monuments throughout the city, to taste the specialities on the terrace of taverns

ACCESSIBILITY : Find all our addresses on our map Mapstr !

Athens through the centuries

In May we had the chance to visit Athens for a few days. It was an opportunity for us to immerse ourselves in antiquity and to walk in the footsteps of the first democracy, no less!

Between vestiges, excursion on the coast, discovery of the gastronomy (we love the haloumi and the vine leaves...), we tell you everything about these 4 days!

Accessibility not always easy

Compared to other cities in Europe, Athens is not necessarily the most accessible. It is true that adapting a city that was created so long ago is not an easy task. The government is taking steps to force municipalities to make their cities more wheelchair friendly. The pavements in Athens are very often damaged and they are rarely lowered to the level of pedestrian crossings. The urge to move directly onto the road is very strong but be careful as Greeks drive fast and may not see you driving past parked cars. Some areas have had their public spaces redesigned and in addition to a wide, smooth pavement, a guide for the visually impaired has been installed.

To our great surprise, access to the remains has been redesigned for people with reduced mobility. The Acropolis has the most recent equipment with a lift and part of the pathway is now concreted, in keeping with the site, so that wheelchairs in particular can get around. The other sites all have signs indicating what is and is not accessible. It is up to each person to decide whether or not they can go, depending on their equipment!

The Acropolis, a promontory dedicated to Athena

For more than 3000 years, civilisations have succeeded one another on this hill. Many buildings have been erected here, but it is those dating from the 5th century BC that we are lucky enough to still see today. These various temples date from the time of Pericles, the Athenian strategist and statesman. Throughout his life he led several wars, the most famous of which was the Peloponnesian War against Sparta. It was finally on the Aegean Sea, thanks to his allies of the League of Delos, that he succeeded in imposing himself and pushing back the Persian influence. To mark his passage, he used part of the Athenian treasury to launch one of the largest construction projects of the time on the Acropolis. 

Most of the temples are dedicated to the goddess Athena and her many qualities: Polias (protector of the city), Parthenian, Promachos (goddess of war), Ergane (goddess of manual labour) and Nike (victory). The most imposing is obviously the Parthenon, which at that time housed a huge statue, sculpted by Phidias, in gold and ivory. The others are open to the worship of all the Olympian gods so as not to anger them!

Do you know why Athena was chosen as the city's protector? The choice was between her and Poseidon, god of the oceans. Gathered on the Acropolis with the inhabitants, Poseidon threw his trident into the rock and a spring of pure water sprang up while Athena grew an olive tree. Thanks to the votes of the women who preferred the goddess' calm, Athena was appointed protector. The men, extremely disappointed, decided from that moment on to forbid women the right to vote...

Legend has it that the olive tree in front of theErechteion grows in the same place as Athena's... The inhabitants of the city, who worship Poseidon, built a temple to him at Cape Sounion. We tell you all about it at the end of the article!

For those of you who want to know more or simply see original pieces found during the excavations, the Acropolis Museum is a gold mine! Damaged or looted over the centuries, the government decided in the 19th century to launch major excavations to preserve what remained of the temples. This is how the caryatids and fragments of original statues were found. The last floor is dedicated to the Parthenon. It allows you to see the real size of the temple thanks to the reconstruction of the pediment with original pieces and replicas.

Neighbourhoods full of life

The best thing to do between two visits is to stroll through the Plaka district. Between two relics of antiquity, take advantage of the shade of the houses on Adrianou Street to shop for souvenirs. If you've still got a bit of strength left, climb a few slopes: the alleyways ofAnafiotika are sublime. Nicknamed the little Cyclades, we've fallen in love with these white walls with shutters of all colors!

The few streets at the foot of the Acropolis are often made with stairs to make it easier for the inhabitants to come and go. Some cafés have set up shop here and you can immediately feel the family atmosphere with old and young people mingling at the various tables.

Not far from the Tower of the Winds, the Platanos tavern allows you to take a cool break on the terrace sheltered by a large vine. The products used are fresh and a real treat for the taste buds. 

Remains in the heart of the city

To continue our journey through Athenian history over the centuries, we pass the gate delimiting theancient Agora. Don't be surprised to see the metro to Piraeus passing right underneath! The works for its installation have partly helped to see the Agora as we see it today. 

With the Acropolis just above the Areopagus hill, which was reserved for the worship of the gods, the inhabitants chose this place as the heart of their social life. Its dimensions evolved steadily over time until it found its final form in the 5th century BC. Since the end of the 19th century, excavations have been carried out in the middle of the olive trees and have brought to light numerous buildings. The Stoa of Attalos has been completely rebuilt to house the Agora Museum. A little further on, the temple of Hephaestus dominates the place, magical!

The last one we visit is Hadrian's Library. There is not much left of it but it is a nice place surrounded by houses. If you are lucky, you may see a small tortoise stretching its legs.

Moving away from the city centre

Head east out of the city centre through Hadrian's Gate to the Temple of Olympian Zeus. This is one of the largest temples of the ancient world! Only a few columns remain today, but the size of the place gives you an idea of its grandeur. 

Next door, the National Garden is a haven of peace and greenery that is not to be underestimated when the weather is very hot. Many species of exotic plants and orange trees can be found here! 

The presidential palace borders the garden and you are advised to watch the changing of the guard. At first glance, you notice the uniform of the Evzones. It is inspired by traditional Greek dress and changes colour according to the season between blue, white and beige. It is only afterwards that you realise how well choreographed they are!

You can also find them in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Syntagma Square.

End your afternoon with a lap around the Panathenaic Stadium! The current stadium, built entirely of marble in the 19th century, is located on the same site as the first stadium in Athens dating back to 330 BC! 

The first Olympic Games of the modern era were held here in 1896 under the presidency of Pierre de Coubertin.

Whether you are a sportsman or not, take the opportunity to run on this mythical track and compete with friends!

Visit Athens with a local

The Athens Tourist Office offers the opportunity to visit the city with one of its inhabitants. They are not professional guides but simply enthusiasts who are happy to share a moment with you. 

Spyros will be our guide for a morning to discover the district ofExarchia. It is the cradle of several revolts and protest movements in the history of Greece: student revolt to end the dictatorship, riots during the financial crisis... The neighbourhood has a marked political colouring and is famous for its rebellious spirit.

It is also avillage-like area, full of small cafes and taverns under the trees, mostly frequented by Athenians.

On the way, we pass the Athenian Trilogy, which includes the National Library, the University and the Academy of Athens. These three buildings were built at the end of the 19th century with the aim of bringing the architecture of the ancient temples back to the heart of the city.

After our visit, we decide to extend the pleasure of our wanderings in search of street-art works. The walls of Athens are covered with all kinds of styles but some stand out from the rest. Our favourite is undoubtedly the owl's head protected by its helmet in homage to the divinity. We continue with the performance of SocratesWe then continue with the statue of St. Peter, one of the great thinkers of antiquity. Just before reaching Monastiraki Square, pass by Riga Palamidou Street to listen to a jazz band... 

The most beautiful viewpoint in Athens

From the Acropolis you can see this hill which dominates the city. 277m high, it offers a magnificent panorama! A funicular allows to reach the top but for us who wanted to get there for the sunrise we had to find another solution! 

At 5.30 a.m. a taxi takes us from our hotel to a esplanade at the beginning of the path leading to the chapel of Saint George. We pass the first steps and a few metres further on we come face to face with some very steep stairs that seem impassable... A few minutes after we started, Georges and Vicky, two young people who had come to finish their evening in style, offered us their help! After 30 minutes of intense effort, we managed to get up the 250+ steps, just in time to admire one of the most beautiful sunrises we've ever seen!

The descent was not easy either but starting our day like this was clearly worth it!

Two outings around Athens

Kaisariani Monastery

The Kaisariani Monastery is a 20-minute drive from the city centre and is nestled in the heart of the forest.

The place is not big but invites to calm and appeasement. It is 10 o'clock in the morning and the sun, already high, brings a very special light between the pine trees. 

After a moment of coolness in the small church, we set off on a path that goes deep into the pine forest. Every time we hit a rock or a root, we feel the heat, but it's nothing compared to the view we have at the end! We realise how big Athens is and how close it is to the sea thanks to the port of Piraeus.

On the way to Cape Sounion

Thanks to AlternativeAthenswe were able to enjoy the Athenian coast for an afternoon. The first stop is the Cultural Centre of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation. Its opening in 2017 allows the inhabitants to reappropriate this abandoned area. On the banks of the basin, a giant spider by Louise Bourgeois is now on display. It can be seen from the roof, which has been transformed into a landscaped garden. On the way to the cape, we stop at a private beach, one of the most expensive on the coast at 80€ per mattress... It houses the ruins of a temple dedicated to Apollo. Don't hesitate to ask the reception if you can go and have a look, they should let you pass as long as you only take pictures with your phone.

Cape Sounion is a magical place. I had the opportunity to visit it during my first trip to Greece in 2004 and I still remember it! 

This temple is part of the golden triangle with the Parthenon and the temple of Aphaia on the island of Aegina. It was built after the Athenians voted to choose their protector in defeat of Athena. The sea spray runs up the cliff as if Poseidon is challenging you to walk on his land!

When the weather is good, the sunsets are fantastic! To end your day on a high note, enjoy a fresh fish at the Ilias tavern with a view of the illuminated temple.

Grecotel Pallas Athena: Located less than 10 minutes walk from Monastiraki Square, it is ideally placed for visiting Athens and all the historical sites. The restaurant is also very good! Rates: from 180€ per night (various room categories). Accessibility: The hotel is fully accessible. We had room 109 with an adapted and fitted bathroom. There was no shower seat but the hotel lent us a plastic chair from the breakfast room.

Gastone : A great address not far from our hotel. They offer revised typical dishes and the portions are generous. Their speciality: the Cracking Pig! Prices: count between 3€ and 10€ for the tapas and from 11€ for the dishes. Visit here the whole menu. Accessibility: The terrace and the interior are accessible. We did not test the toilets.

Omnivore : Not far from Monastiraki Square, this restaurant stands out from its neighbours in terms of quality and presentation. Prices: from €11 for starters and from €16 for mains. There is a wide choice of pizza, pasta, meat and fish that you can find in this restaurant. here. Accessibility: The restaurant is fully wheelchair accessible. The toilets are in the basement and accessible with a lift.)

Tavern Platanos: This tavern is right next to the Tower of the Winds. Hidden in a recess, you can't see it right away and that's what makes it so charming! Prices: Count between 3 and 15€ for starters and main courses. Here, sharing is the order of the day! Accessibility: Only the restaurant's terrace is accessible.

Snob : Not far from Monastiraki, this is the perfect spot to have a cool drink when it's too hot. If you want to sit outside, there can be a bit of a wait. Prices: Drinks start at €4. Accessibility: There is a big step for the inside part, the terrace is on one level. They don't have adapted toilets but with a little help you can pass the two steps (the accessible door is closed) from the pizzeria at the corner of the street: the toilets are adapted.

Local Colour : Behind Monastiraki Square, take the lift to the rooftop with one of the best views of the Acropolis! We recommend you have a cocktail at sunset, it's royal. The Golden Spritz made with Samos, a local wine, is delicious! Prices: from €10 for cocktails. Visit here their menu. Accessibility: The restaurant is fully accessible (including toilets). There is a ramp to access the terrace.

Diogenes : In the heart of Plaka, in the shade of the trees of Lysikratous Square, the Greek flavours are put in the spotlight here. The presentation is refined and the service impeccable. You can find their menu right here. Prices: between 7 and 15€ for dishes to share and from 15€ for single dishes. Accessibility: Only the terrace is wheelchair accessible.

Rozalia (Ροζαλία): In the Exerchia district, under the shade of trees, enjoy delicious dishes. Prices: between 7 and 15€ for the dishes. Accessibility: the restaurant is fully accessible (terrace and toilets provided).

Petite Fleur : Behind the National Garden, the Pagrati district is developing and attracting young couples. It has an almost family atmosphere! This café offers a large menu all day long, and is also a good spot for a quiet end of the day. Prices: from 4€ for hot or cold drinks. Accessibility: Only the terrace is wheelchair accessible.

Ilias Taverna: At the foot of Cape Sounion, prolong the pleasure by tasting fresh fish with your feet in the sand! Prices: from €4 for starters and €13 for main courses. Accessibility: Access to the restaurant is on one level and the terrace is in the sand. We did not have the opportunity to test the toilets during our visit.

Acropolis : A magical place, almost totally accessible! Soak up all the history of this city while you're there, it's grandiose! Prices: Admission costs €20 per person, €10 for the reduced rate. Free for PRM and accompanying persons. It is possible to buy a ticket for several monuments for 30€. See here more information. Accessibility: The Acropolis is accessible via a lift located less than 400m behind the central ticket office. It climbs the wall vertically, the view is impressive! There are good sections covered in concrete to make it easier to move around, but some areas are still covered in stones. To access the Theatre of Dionysus, you will have to leave the Acropolis and re-enter it once you are down. If there are more than two of you, it is important that the other people visiting with you stay inside so as not to lose the use of their ticket once downstairs. There are accessible toilets next to the ticket office as well. They are locked but there is always someone next door who has the key. This is access map for people with reduced mobility.

Acropolis Museum : At the foot of the Acropolis, this museum allows you to see the original pieces! The pediment of the Parthenon has been entirely reconstructed! Prices: In summer, admission is €10 per adult and €5 per child. In winter, 5€ per adult and 3€ per child. Admission is free for PRMs all year round. Accessibility: The museum is fully accessible (toilets and all areas). See here the full map.

Ancient agora : A huge garden with the only remaining temple in Athens, ruins, a church and a museum. Prices: 10€ per adult and 5€ for reduced rates. It is included in the full ticket at 30€. See here all the info. Accessibility: The ground is fairly well packed and allows many wheelchairs to move around easily. A ramp has been installed to access the Stoa. Unfortunately the Hephaistos time is very difficult to access.

Hadrian's Library : There's not much left here but stepping into this place now in the middle of the city always makes an impact! Prices: 6€ per adult and 3€ for reduced rates. It is included in the full ticket at 30€. See here all the information. Accessibility: Access is compulsory with an attendant as the PRM path is mostly in areas not open to the public. Access is via the street just above, passing through a car access. There are also accessible toilets (they were out of order when we visited).

Kaisariani Monastery: A great getaway near Athens. Rates: €3 per adult and €2 for the reduced rate. Accessibility: A paved path runs through the monastery. There are two steps to the church.

Mount Lycabetta : One of the most beautiful views of Athens at sunrise. Accessibility: This hill is clearly not wheelchair accessible. There are a huge amount of steps to reach the top. Unless there are a lot of people, we don't recommend this trip.

Panathenaic Stadium: Come and run on the mythical stadium of the first Olympic Games! Prices: 10€ per adult, 5€ for reduced rates, free for PRM and one accompanying person. Accessibility: It is fully accessible except for the stands. There are also toilets outside the stadium, but these are subject to a charge.

Cultural Centre of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation : At the level of Piraeus, a magnificent foundation which houses part of the national library! Don't miss the green rooftop, the view is superb! Rates: Access is free for all. Accessibility: The building is fully accessible (including the toilets). See here all the information (in English only).

Temple of Poseidon (Cape Sounion): The perfect place for a memorable sunset! It takes about 1h20 from the city centre to get there by the side. Prices: €10 per adult and €5 for reduced rates. Accessibility: Ramps have been installed along most of the path. A concrete area with large steps ends the access path. To access the toilets, please ask at the restaurant at the foot of the temple.

We loved spending those few days in Athens. It certainly wasn't easy from an accessibility point of view, but being in the heart of the city that was home to the very first republican is impressive all the same!

We now take you to Spetses for 2 days on a charming island!

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