30/08/2020

Corsican villages, from Calvi to St Florent

Reading time: 5 minutes

OUR TRIP: 8 days on site: 6 to 13 July 2020

WHY GO? For the citadel of Calvi, the countless villages lost in the surrounding mountains, and the turquoise waters just around the corner.

ACCESSIBILITY: Find all our addresses on our Mapstr map!

It's time to leave the lush nature of the Fangu Delta behind and follow the coast towards Calvi. We take you to discover a region known for its villages perched in the mountains: the Balagne.

The Balagne

Stage 1: Calvi

As we said in our previous article, Corsica is the perfect place for sunsets. Calvi is no exception to this rule!
On the coastal road towards Galéria, a viewpoint allows you to observe the changing colours of the Revelata peninsula and the citadel. It is splendid!

We quickly put down our things at the hotel to go and discover the old town. We stumble upon the delicatessen A Casetta... After a few minutes of waiting, we sit down at one of the six tables on the terrace, what a treat!

The next day, after a day spent in the surrounding villages, we take advantage of the cool evening to climb to the citadel.
Access is either by stairs or by road and we won't lie to you, once at the top it's not very accessible to wheelchairs! Whether it's more stairs or cobblestones on all sides, the visit is quite limited...

Three things stand out:

    • Do not ride in the sun to avoid a sweat
    • The view over the bay
    • The restaurant La Voûte which put us back on our feet
Calvi, its restaurants, its citadel
You fly away, you fly away

You know us, we are always looking for activities in the middle of nature. So it was with great excitement that we went to the Salvi pass (15 min drive from Calvi) for our very first paragliding jump! TheAltore team welcomes us at the take-off point for the preparations. The area is not at all accessible for wheelchairs but, once again, we had to rely on their good mood and their desire to make us discover their sport! Without a second thought, we are on the slope, ripped off, the wind inflates the sail and... that's it: we are in the air! 

We fly over the maquis for 20 minutes with the bay of Calvi in the distance, a moment out of time! The feet hardly put on the floor of the cows that the desire to start again takes us already.

If you have the time, don't miss this opportunity to get laid!

Like an air of freedom

Hotel Casa Bianca: Away from the hustle and bustle of the port, this hotel has a large, accessible room. A hearty breakfast to start the day! Accessibility: 5/5

A Casetta: A delicatessen with a terrace where you can taste the products of the house. Don't forget to book, there are only a few places available! Accessibility: 2/5

La Voûte: In the heart of the citadel, an affordable menu and a staircase terrace. Accessibility: 1/5

Altore: Take off in a paraglider over the maquis! A team that will answer all your questions before take-off.

Stage 2: The villages of Balagne

Balagne, like Corsica in general, isn't just about the coast! So it's in the heart of the mountains that we set off to discover the villages that have made this region famous.

There are many of them, all of which are worth seeing, so we give you our favourites:

  • Montemaggiore

You can't miss it when you arrive from Calenzana. The view in front of the church and its narrow streets are well worth the stop!

  • Sant'Antonino

Classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, it overlooks the region with a 360° panorama.
In terms of access, there is a car park below the village. To avoid our readers on wheels having to walk the rest of the way, ask one of the locals if you can use one of the few parking spaces in the main square for the duration of your visit. Unfortunately, the narrow streets are not wheelchair accessible because of the many stairs.

The alleys of Montemaggiore and Sant'Antonino
  • Pigna

The most picturesque of all. The pedestrian is king here and... only the pedestrian! Unless you have an over-equipped wheelchair, it is almost impossible to get around on the cobblestones.

  • Aregno

In the heart of the cemetery stands a church with atypical colours! If you have time, there is a petanque court in front of it.

  • Lumio

Before returning to Calvi, make one last stop in this terraced village. Contemplate the sunset on the bay from the church square, you'll tell us about it!

The church of Sainte Marie de Lumio

Between Calvi and St Florent, we stop off atIle Rousse. We sleep on the peninsula at the foot of the La Pietra lighthouse, the perfect opportunity for one of our most beautiful sunrises ever! The Cap Corse lights up and the whole coast is adorned with golden lights... sumptuous!

This stop allows us not to hurry to visit the different villages with notably Corbara, Speloncato and Belgodère. Don't worry, the distances are not great, everything can be done from Calvi.

La Pietra lighthouse at sunrise

Hotel La Pietra: Located at the foot of the lighthouse of La Pietra, we challenge you to find a better view from the accessible room! Accessibility : 4/5

L'Escale: Good seafood dishes. Accessibility: 5/5

Stage 3: St Florent and the Nebbio (1h30 drive)

We leave Ile Rousse in the direction of St Florent, the road is not very long and passes at the edge of the Agriates desert. The paradisiacal beaches of Saleccia and Lotu are hidden to the north. They are only accessible by 4×4. You can rent one in St Florent or choose to go with an organised excursion by land or sea. Unfortunately for us the rental companies were closed when we visited. We are not disappointed though, as the accessibility on site is more than complicated!

rue saint florent corse
The colourful streets of St Florent

From St Florent, two excursions are possible:

    • The Nebbio

If you liked the villages of Balagne, the Nebbio is in the same vein! Don't miss the church of San Michele de Murato. Its black and white stone exterior makes it unique!

    • Patrimonio

The only Corsican wine PDO is located here with vines as far as the eye can see! The shops of the various estates follow one another in the main street. We stop at the one of the Montemagni estate where Louis Montemagni, 85 years old, explains everything in detail. Next year they will be certified organic!
If you prefer beer, the Ribella brewery offers very good beers without artificial flavours.

murato corse church
The church of San Michele in Murato

Hotel Les Galets: A 15 minute walk from the town centre, the calm of this hotel should suit everyone. The beach is just ahead! Accessibility: 4.5/5

MaThy'S: On the corner of two streets, it almost goes unnoticed. A simple, fresh and seasonal lunch menu: a treat! Its terrace under the trees is perfect. Accessibility: 2/5

L'auberge du Pêcheur: Hidden behind its fish shop, Damien Muller's restaurant offers one of the best tuna in Corsica! Thanks to his Japanese technique, the fish is respected from start to finish and is all the better for it! Accessibility: 5/5

Domaine Montemagni: A family estate created in 1850 that has won numerous awards over the years. The rosé is particularly good! Accessibility: 5/5

Ribella Brewery: They call it the autonomous Corsican beer and its all natural composition suits it very well

Altore: Another team will meet you here to fly you over the bay of St Florent in a hydro microlight (a microlight sail attached to a boat) or in a gyrocopter!

4×4 Agriates: Rent a 4×4 to cross the Agriates desert !

Now that we've had our fill, it's time to set course for... Cap Corse! Up there: few tourists, huge lobsters, beaches and goats...

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